Sunday, December 14, 2008

Out on the Town: Perbacco

Our friend Peter has been recommending Perbacco, on East Fourth Street and Avenue B, for a few months now. Raving that it is currently the best restaurant in New York, he goes there nearly every week to enjoy their creative take on Italian cuisine. We were supposed to meet him for dinner, but when he was unable to join us we decided to go anyway. I am so glad we did. The restaurant is small but comfortable. There are three long wine bar-style tables, plus regular dinner tables. At 8:30 on a Friday night the place was full, but we were seated instantly. Of course, I have noticed that recently (recession much?) there have been much shorter waits in restaurants. The waiter could not have been more lovely and attentive.

We drank a reasonably priced wine and started with two appetizers. The Salciccia Di Gamberi E Capesante - home made shrimp and scallop sausage over a bed of chickpea simmered in a shrimp broth - was divine. Although it tasted strongly of fish, it was far from 'fishy.' It was a hearty, savory way to begin the meal. We also could not resist the Creme Brule' Di Parmigiano Reggiano - crème brule with a balsamic vinegar reduction. It lived up to all of our hopes. The top cracked with a spoon like traditional creme brulee, but rather than a sweet center we were treated to a creamy Parmesan taste explosion. It was certainly strong, but not overpowering. The balsamic reduction provided a slightly sweet counterpoint, representing a new take on a classic pairing.

For the main course Evan ordered the Spaghetti Alla Carbonara Di Tonno - homemade thick spaghetti with sautéed tuna cubes in a creamy egg sauce, topped with a tuna prosciutto. Once again, a creative take on a classic dish. Although the portion was very small, such a rich dish does not need to be served large. It was surprisingly light for a cream-based dish, and the tuna provided just the right flavor.

I wanted to try something new, and so was between the beef cheeks and pork belly. These are both fairly standard to menus and are harmless meats, but something about their name has always turned me off. When I think pork belly I think intestines. Nonetheless, reassured by our helpful waiter, I ordered the Pancia Di Maiale - slow cooked pork belly in honey and black pepper sauce with broccoli rabe and roasted red onion. Words cannot describe how delicious this dish was. Pork Belly is a surprisingly lean cut of meat considering its name, and it was cooked to perfection - tender and flavorful. The honey lent sweetness to the salty pork. The broccoli rabe gave a touch of bitterness to the meal, and the onions had caramelized through roasting, and the sauce had a hint of peppery spice. The flavors worked so well together - salty, bitter, sweet, spicy - I didn't want it to be over.

Eventually the meal did end, though. There was no more food on my plate. And although we didn't order dessert the waiter, in true Italian style, made us feel as though it would be fine to sit there all night. Meals are not to be rushed, just as one should not be herded out of a restaurant. We will definitely return to Perbacco. There is a lot of exploring left to do on the menu. Thanks, Peter, for the recommendation.

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